By John Shawn Prescott

For now this will be the last of the series of articles (15 in number), that we will post on our web site.

However I will of course in response to a need consider creating some more, if the questions and problems warrant it. You can reach me at john@aquarium-gardening.com

Clown, showing typical “white spots” of Oodinium infection

Anyway, I decided to entitle this contribution ‘Everyday questions etc’ as there is hardly a day passes, that I do not get an E-Mail or a phone call, referring to some of the questions that I will now give details of. I will also give my reply to these matters. I hope it will be helpful to some of you, if you happen to meet the same problem.

Question.1) My saltwater fish are infected with a parasite, they are showing spots, but I do not know if it is marine ‘Ick’ aka Cryptocaryon or Coral fish disease aka Amyloodinium?

Answer: Firstly one should be aware that the ’spots’ in marine ‘Ick’ are much larger and whiter than those for Coral Fish disease.

Furthermore, Amyloodinium, usually kills the first fish at least within a matter of hours of being observed. Further casualties can be expected in short order, if untreated. Cryptocaryon , typically takes 2-3 weeks progressively getting worse every couple of days, but seldom kills quickly.

In Coral Fish disease, the spots are small, often grey or yellow in colour, and cover the fish so that under light at the correct angle, they will resemble a sandpaper effect. Furthermore as they most usually in severe attacks, congregate also on the gills, one often will find an infected fish, gasping on the bottom of the tank (sometimes at the surface), desperately trying to get air. The parasites impede by their sheer numbers the passage through the gills of oxygen, as well as doing severe necrotic damage to the gills tissues.

For those of you who wish to read further into these two common parasites, so you may distinguish the difference, I would refer you to the previous articles in this series, in which I deal in detail with each of these two very common parasites. As each call to us is frantically directed to know, what to do, I may here give some pointers about treatment.

( Fish-Vet ) produce a product formerly called ‘No-Ick’. This product will eliminate Cryptocaryon irritans from fish, and is safe to use in a Reef Tank as it will NOT harm any Invertebrates. You can obtain this product from us, but because of the laws pertaining here and in the EEC, you will need to visit us with the fish and aand our local Veterinary surgeon, will have to concur in the diagnosis and write a prescription for this product. As already mentioned, the progression of this disease, is such that one usually has time to call the store and order the product. Of course the quicker one begins treatment, the surer the cure, and the less damage to the fish.

However in the case of Amyloodinium , the progression of the disease is so rapid, that unless one has a medication such as our ‘Revive’(also Reef safe) ready on hand, the chances of saving most of your fish is not high. Thus if you have in your tank a considerable investment in fish, it is certainly worth the investment to have a bottle handy so that if you do experience this devastating parasite, you have the odds stacked in your favour. ‘Revive’ can cure this scourge, in about one day, as it is lethal to the parasite.

Question 2). I think I have more than disease in my tank, possibly Cryptocaryon irritans , as well as Amyloodinium, and even a bacterial infection. Can I use remedies simultaneously?

Answer : I am sure we get asked this question several times each week. This is our considered reply, based on thousands of case histories.

First determine what the problem is. It is rare to have both parasites simultaneously in your aquarium. However if you are quite sure that you do, then treat first for Amyloodinium, with ‘Revive’, as the progression of this infestation is so fast, that all the fish will be dead unless treated immediately.

Do NOT use ‘No-Ick’ and ‘Revive’ at the same time. This can lead to problems of interaction under some circumstances, and we cannot determine, the subtle differences that will cause a problem in one set-up and not another. As ‘Revive’ only needs 2-3 days to totally eliminate the Coral fish disease parasite, and as Marine ‘Ick’ takes much longer to cause fatalities, you have time to pursue this course of action.

It is important with both medications NOT to use your skimmer, or any charcoal filtration during treatment, as either or both of these, will remove some of the active ingredients, and thus make them less effective.

After treating with ‘Revive’ for 3 days, turn on your skimmer, and use a good brand of activated charcoal in your filter, for about 12 hours, to remove any residual medication. Then add ‘No-Ick’ and treat as directed. Again turn of the skimmer, and remove charcoal from the filter, until the treatment is completed, and the C.irritans parasite has completely disappeared, whichever is the longer.

In the event that the ‘conflict’ of disease, is between C.irritans (by far the most common of the 2 parasites), and a bacterial infection, with signs of bloody lesions etc, on the sides or elsewhere on the fish, act as follows:- I always recommend to first treat for the parasite, and when this is completed, to remove the ‘No-Ick’ in the manner described above, then treat with ‘Revive’ for the infection.

‘Revive’ is effective against not only Amyloodinium but also is an excellent antibacterial agent for gram negative bacteria, which are the causative organisms for the majority of those bacterial infections which we find in the aquarium. It also is very effective against many gill flukes as well.

Question 3). Should I use my UV lamp during treatment, and can I continue to add various additives?

Answer: Although we have had examples from several Hobbyists, where they have used their UV lamp without problems during treatment with ‘No-Ick’ , there is in the literature some evidence, that there can be an unfavourable interaction between the rays of the lamp, and the active ingredients. Therefore we have warned against their simultaneous use. As I have already said, we know of many cases,

Freshwater fish with fine ’salt and pepper’ dust showing on the skin. Fish is infected with Oodinium pilluri s the freshwater form of Amyloodinium . The appearance is almost identical, and I do not have a good photo of a saltwater fish with the spots showing.

which have caused no problem, but it safer to err on the side of caution. I would also point out, that UV lamps will have no effect whatsoever, on killing the parasites, so I really see no reason to feel worried about turning off the lamp for a couple of weeks. The lamp should also not be used if treating with ‘Revive’ as one of the ingredients in ‘Revive’ is very light sensitive.

As for the use of additives, such as trace elements, Kalkwasser etc, there is no reason at all not to continue with these, and in both our experience, as well as the hundreds of Hobbyists that have reported to us, have we had a single case of negative interactions.

Question 4) . Do you recommend, using ‘No Ick’ periodically as a prophylactic treatment in my show aquarium, and if so how often?

Answer: Obviously prevention is better than cure. However I do not believe that once things are stable in the main show aquarium, that one should add our medication (or any other) as a preventative.

What I do advocate, is that every new purchase, of fish, or Invertebrates, or Live Rock etc, should be held in a small filtered quarantine tank for at least 2 weeks before being introduced to the main aquarium. This is the right place and time, to use the treatment, even if there are no signs of disease. If this regimen is followed then it is improbable that outbreaks of either parasite or bacteria will break out to cause you aggravation, losses and heartbreak.

Remember, when introducing new fish to an established tank, to do so in VERY subdued lighting, preferably in the evening. Do this as close to total darkness as you can manage. Leave off the lights for some 12 hours, and if practical move some rocks or other decorations, so that the existing inhabitants will pay more attention to searching out their favorite spot in the tank, and far less to the new arrivals. This greatly reduces stress, and the potential that this can cause an outbreak of disease.

It is important to be aware, that the C.irritans parasite has the capability to lie dormant for very long periods of time, below the epithelial layer (under the skin). It cannot be eliminated in this stage, by any treatment that we are aware of. However it also will seldom break out and cause a problem unless stress in the form of an intruder, as just mentioned, or adverse water chemistry causes it to feel it should seek a new host. By minimizing the chances of stress, one can protect your fish, from these infections to some degree at least.

Finally I would like to refer to the percentage of customers, who fail either with our, or other treatments. They are understandably upset when this occurs, and would like to know why.

In a large percentage of these failures we have been able to determine the likely reasons. There are still about 10-15% of such cases, where we are unable at this time to say with confidence that we know what is the reason. However for the vast majority of failures we can offer below, some guidelines as to the cause. ( failures amount to about 25% of total attempted treatments, so that 10-15% of these is only some 4-5%, of all outbreaks that we cannot explain)

Here are what we have ascertained as the major causes of ‘failed’ treatments.

• a) A wrong diagnosis has been made. As everyone will realize, Aspirin will not cure a broken leg. Thus if you do not make the correct diagnosis, and use the wrong treatment, not only will you not effect a cure, but as any chemical can cause some stress, you will often make the problem worse.
• b) Treatment has been instituted, but the protein skimmer, and/or charcoal filtration has been continued. Depending on the efficacy of the skimmer and the amount and quality of the charcoal, much of the active ingredients of the treatment will be removed, thus ensuring a negative result.
• c) Many aquarists are unsure about the amount of water in their tank, and often forget to include the water in their sump etc. Also they sometimes do not allow for the water displaced by large amounts oflive rock etc. Too little or too much medication, can have an negativeeffect. Too little will enable the parasite to continue it’s life cycle. Too much can have the effect of causing severe adverse effects in the fish. Before beginning treatment, it is most essential to calculate & then recheck the amount of water you are treating.
• d) The fish are in an advanced stage of infection, before treatment is begun. As you will all be aware, if we are ill, the quicker we get to a professional, and begin the correct treatment, the better our chances of a complete recovery. When one leaves the treatment too late, then it is very hard to bring back fish, that are already at death’s door.

These reasons account for by far the majority of failures in treatment. Pay careful attention to them, as well as the points above, and your success, as well as your level of expertise will move into a high percentile. The satisfaction, not to mention the good feeling of saving your fish, and thus not losing money, will add enormously to your self confidence, and no doubt many fellow Hobbyists will seek you out to advise them also.

Some concluding remarks. Each week I receive many of E Mails, and even some phone calls, requesting advice or help related to problems that the Aquarist or their child is experiencing. The vast majority of these I respond to, as many of you can testify to. However I would like anyone who is requesting such advice to take into account the following ground rules.

Like most people on this earth, I have to make a living, which I and my colleagues do, as professional consultants working with fish, as well as producing our software products, and other products. So would appreciate if your inquiries can be to the point to save both of us time etc.

I also find myself irritated by a small percentage of E-Mails I receive, which state a problem, often with very poor grammar, and insufficient information, and give no signature at all.

I think most reasonable persons would agree, that nobody would phone or write to a doctor ask their advice, and expect FREE advice without even the courtesy of the doctor knowing who, or where they lived.

Often by far the best solution to these problems is to go to the store where one bought the fish. I do realize that some stores do not have a good background in fish disease, but if the anonymous questioner, gave their name and address, then often we are aware of a store who could advice them properly, that was near to their home.

It is often extremely difficult to diagnose a problem with the very limited amount of information we are given, and that is why we produced the Fish-Vet software, as seeing the ’signs’ is far more informative that descriptions. Each person can describe the same symptom in different language. Yet seeing the fish, will tell an experienced person the answer in a moment. This is why taking the fish to a competent store, is usually the most certain way to obtain meaningful advice. We of course with a great deal of experience can often make sense of a well stated problem, but often we get E Mails that say, ‘my fish won’t eat, please reply immediately’, and others in similar vein. No name, sometimes, not even the kind of fish in trouble. .

Sometimes when a matter is urgent, and you do not believe that your dealer is up to the task of giving you sound advice, then if you can take a photo, and send it along with your message, remembering to indicate in then body of the message, the format of the photo, i.e. GIF, TIFF, JPEG etc.

John Shawn Prescott john@aquarium-gardening.com

by John Shawn Prescott

Some ideas on how to buy healthy fish, and a parasite that is becoming increasingly common.

This fish is suffering primarily from a bacterial infection, but such a site rapidly becomes infected with Tetrahymena when present in the water.

In this article I wish to deal with a freshwater parasite that my contacts in the aquarium hobby tell me is now seen very frequently , whereas previously it was a rare event. Furthermore this parasite is not easy to eradicate. Also as so many readers write me with problems about either new fish they have just bought, or a new tank, that has been just set up, and they have major problems of disease and more, I felt it would be a good time to address this problem.

Firstly then the parasite. This obnoxious species is called Tetrahymena pyroformis.

Tetrahymena cell, ciliates can be observed on the periphery

The parasite is a oval shaped ciliated protozoan, and looks at first examination rather similar to the Oodinium parasite. It is some 35 -85 microns in size and ahs the ability to multiply very rapidly once it gets established , often with disastrous results.

It’s favourite infective site is the skin, but it also can attack the fins. The parasite will invade tissue, especially if there is a small lesion, and its necrotic action will quickly cause both damage to the underlying tissues of the fish, and accelerate further damage and invasion by pathogenic bacteria. Mortalities if untreated will ensue for certain, and recognition and remedial procedures are vital if it is not to spread to all the fish in the tank.

Certain species of fish appear to especially prone to infection, among them are Guppies, also most of the other livebearers, such as Mollies. Platies, Swordtails etc, and also many of the Tetra family, also Dwarf Cichlids, are reported to be most susceptible.

Skin . Typically necrotic lesions and haemorrhaging will be seen on the various parts of the skin.

Eyes . Sometimes Exopthalmia (either unilateral or bilateral) aka as ‘popeye’ will be observed, though this is not always the case.

Fins . Fins are often also attacked and ‘patches’ may be observed in heavy infections with the naked eye, as they will show a contrasting darker colour.

Water quality . There would appear to be a close correlation between a poor water quality , i.e. one with a high organic load, and the onset of a ‘attack’ of this parasite.

Gills . In heavy ’systemic’ cases, ciliates may also be easily identified on the gills of the fish. This leads to difficulty in respiration and without treatment; the fish will quickly succumb and die due to lack of oxygen.

Tetrahymena sp. attached to the fins of a fish

It would appear from the literature that there are probably a few sub strains, and that some of these are more virulent than others. Furthermore it had been believed for a long time that this organism was in fact free living in the water, causing no harm to the aquarium inhabitants.

It would now appear more likely, that some of the sub species, and not necessarily the species ‘pyroformis’ indicted above, have established a predilection when possible, and whenever conditions allow to take up the parasitic mode, and this is been observed with ever increasing frequency on fishes imported from Asia, where it would now appear to be endemic.

In severe cases, infective sites of the parasite have been identified in the fish’s brain, kidney and muscles.

It should be noted that the organism can also live freely and survives readily on decaying organic matter , which can be in many cases, uneaten food also detrital matter. This then at some point seems to ‘trigger’ the movement of the parasite to invade suitable fish, and then the cycle of of reproduction and pathogenic effect, can quickly become explosive and lethal.

It is vital in the first instance to ensure that the water quality is of the highest standard possible, and that ALL uneaten food and any waste matter is removed, both by filters, and if need be as well by physical removal.

Indications are that the following compound can be used with some success.

1 Litre of 37-40% Formalin ( formaldehyde) 3.7 grams Methylene blue. 3.7 grams Malachite green (zinc free ONLY)

Use about 20 drops of this mixture for every 100 Litres of Aquarium water. Dose every second day and changes of water should be made about every second day and the appropriate amount of extra mixture added to compensate.

However this treatment has several important cautions.

1) Most scaleless fish e.g. Elephant noses, Clown loach and many such, plus a great many species of the Tetra family, are highly susceptible to the toxic effects of Malachite green. This can very often be fatal to them.

2) The water chemistry plays a very important role in the toxicity ( to the parasite and the fish itself) of this drug. The softer and more acid the water the more toxic the drug becomes.

Short 10 minute formalin baths in a separate treatment vessel, giving 1-2 drops of formalin per litre of water of the treatment vessel, for between 30-45 minutes, can sometimes make a great improvement. It is VITAL that the water in the treatment vessel be the same chemical and temperature as the main aquarium to avoid shock, stress etc. Watch the fish during the full treatment time, as some fish ( again scaleless especially) can be very negatively reactive to this treatment.

We have had some excellent success using the product ECO F/W, in the aquarium itself and it has no adverse effects on any species we have so far used it on. these include all of the above mentioned species. However using this treatment, firstly pay close attention to what I have already said about water quality, and secondly because the treatment is milder, it is essential to treat for the full 2 week period as indicated, even if things appear to be alright as we have often observed after about 4-5 days. This is to ensure that the parasite is totally eliminated and not just lying dormant.

As this parasite is now playing havoc all over the country, I would be most grateful to receive case histories from hobbyists and dealers, who have experienced Tetrahymena sp . and hear their experiences and treatment results, to compare with our own.

Now to the more general topic of how to avoid ‘importing’ disaster to your aquarium. Many hobbyists I hear from seem to have little faith in the advice of their dealer. This begs the question why if this be so, do they continue to buy from them. Sometimes geography will be the reason, but certainly this cannot always the answer.

Impetuosity is without doubt a major reason, as is the fact that we expect instant perfection with little input on our side.

The first thing to observe when selecting a dealer, is to find out how long they have been in business. This may be a little unfair to new entrants to the industry, but usually a store that has survived the first 3 years or more will make it, whilst failures, as in most kinds of business, will take place within the first 1-2 years. It would appear self evident, that those that make it, are usually more knowledgeable than those that do not. Also in many cases more ethical.

Secondly , does the store or/and its employees appear to have a good background in the science of fish keeping, or do you get the impression that they are trying to sell you some equipment or fish just to make a sale,.

Thirdly , do they take the time and trouble, to find out what kind of equipment you already use, and which species of fish you currently have in your set-up. This is important, because I find often, that hobbyists, have purchased incompatible fish, which then cause stress to each other, and subsequent disease outbreaks.

Fourthly , Does the store have some really magnificent show tanks, not only a reef tank, but also a planted fresh water aquarium, and in fact at least on example of how an aquarium should be , of the type YOU are interested in. It is notable to me, that in Japan, and many parts of Europe many stores appear to have as many ‘demonstration’ not for sale tanks as they do, tanks from which they do sell. This does two important things for you the buyer. It enables you to have an idea of just how beautiful an aquarium can be, when maintained properly. It shows you that the store must know what they are talking about in how to keep such a beautiful show tank.

Fifthly , Are the tanks in the store clean, the water sparkling clear, and is there, as there should be a TOTAL lack of any dead or sick fish in the tanks. NEVER buy from a store where such evident examples of problems can be seen. Every store will have some sick fish, but the good stores, will firstly quarantine all new arrivals and treat them for a few days, and certainly will pay close attention to all and any signs of problems and remove them for treatment. Sometimes I have seen good stores that be treating a tank, and will have a paper or other screen over a tank during this period, with a sign saying ‘not for sale’ or suchlike. This store is taking it’s responsibilities seriously and is likely a serious store.

Sixthly Is the fish or fishes you intend to buy eating properly. Have you seen them rush greedily for some food. Fish that are sick, or shortly to become so, very typically are sluggish or indifferent to feeding, and this is often an excellent warning sign.

Seven . Has the fish you wish to purchase been in the store for at least a week? Most problems occur either immediately on arrival or in the subsequent few days. If a new arrival especially appeals to you, and you are worried that the store may sell it before you return, then ask to leave a small deposit, as a sign of good faith. All good store owners will be happy to do this for a regular customer, and if it should get ill , or needs further treatment, you can either wait, get your money refunded, or apply it to another purchase. In every case you will avoid almost certain problems.

Eight . Is your aquarium in perfect condition, and are the fish you wish to buy, unlikely to overload the carrying capacity of your tank. Each tank can only sustain so many fish, and if in your enthusiasm you wish to capacity beyond what the tank and it’s support system can safely allow, then catastrophe is guaranteed. The old rule of about 1 inch of fish body, per gallon of water in the tank is about right, at least in fresh water, yet I constantly see this been exceeded. Remember that in nature the fish have hundreds of times this ‘living space’ and a constant natural replacement and/or natural eco- system and filtration to back it up.

Nine . Not always possible, but highly recommended. Try and have a small quarantine tank ( 10-25 gal) which you keep with some form of active biological filtration, etc, and keep the new arrival in this tank for 3-4 days after purchase. Should the worst occur, you can treat easily and effectively, without the trauma of pulling down or destroying your main aquarium, in an attempt to catch all the inhabitants, or having to treat in the main aquarium, which at the least will use far more medication. Ensure that in the ‘hospital’ tank, there is some stones or other hiding places, as otherwise the fish may easily become stressed due to fright. Normally I would not medicate, only if something appears that requires it, as all medications have some stress factor in themselves, but on occasion cannot be avoided.

Finally , read up on the fish you are keeping and wish to keep. Many fish have some special requirement in their diets, yet to many hobbyists, buy a packet of standard food, and feed that religiously every day, so that the essential missing factor in time assumes a critical importance and the fish weakens. By finding out through reading good literature you will become aware of what the needs of your fish are, and sometimes this will apply to water chemistry, temperature etc as well. Information is readily available in this day and age, so use it, and have happier and healthier fish.

John Shawn Prescott john@aquarium-gardening.com

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